C’est le printemps, tête de thon !
… and the sea shores is calling us! It’s the season for Mediterranean bluefin tuna (whose resource is no longer in danger) which Stéphane Jego appreciates both the thickness and translucence.
Faithful to his convictions, he uses a whole fish, every element will be otherwise eaten! Therefore, the cook bought a 50kg tuna, fished with a rod of course, banded for traceability, which he gauges as a connoisseur before assessing the best way to cut and cook it. And here he is, the cook who throws the fish on the table and mixes it with peas, beans, pods, asparagus playing with green and iodized meat all sprinkled with fresh oregano… that he sets on fire! Symbolic dish that sums up Stéphane Jego’s cuisine, which combines elements worked differently and assembled in a flavored fire. This spring tuna also have a place in the Rossini style dish topped with a slice of melting foie gras, sublimated with beetroot humus made with cumin and citrus mousseline. These are the soft and silky textures subtly distilling flavors in your mouth.
But spring does not stop there and Stéphane Jego (that day…) puts the beautiful asparagus, bitter and powerful, at the heart of the mixtures. As in this slow-cook veal, its smoked Fines (a variety of potatoes), beans, peas, asparagus and raw cultivated mushrooms covered with a delicious little broth scented with Japanese style marinated eel, lemon and calf’s foot! Asparagus still in a fricassee of scallops with onions, croutons and veal juice … the chef intensified the flavors, never too light, to obtain a mixture that reveals the main product of the dish. The cook constructs his dish as an architect, structures his mixtures round a powerful spine, a product sustained from a strong juice, an affirmed broth, and organizes around the flavors that will magnify this framework, to reveal certain aspects and to play with the rough edges. With Stéphane Jégo, there is always a long, worked slow-cooking base that organizes the accompaniments. Each dish fits into a continuum, that of the meal, and tells a facet of the cook’s vision. At dessert, marriage of fruits and vanilla, cream and vanilla ice cream, citrus crumble, fresh strawberries and kumquats … just to leave the memory of a beautiful and joyful moment.